Tom Croghan & The Vineyards at Dodon: Living Vineyards Project

Biodiversity provides essential services to our community, including pest control and pollination, yet it is declining at an alarming rate, primarily due to agriculture. In response to this crisis, Tom is a member of the leading team of the Porto Protocol’s Living Vineyards project that seeks to establish ecosystem restoration projects on 20% of global vineyard acreage by 2030.

This initiative “envisions a world where the art of winemaking harmonizes with the preservation and restoration of the natural environment, setting a new standard for responsible viticulture.”

Learn more here.

Dodon Wine in the Press

The Vineyards at Dodon is now on iNaturalist App

Welcome to The Vineyards at Dodon Nature Restoration project.

Living, vibrant ecosystems are crucial to achieving our environmental, community, and winemaking goals. Over the past decade, we have implemented farming practices that encourage diverse native and naturalized plants in and around the vineyard while discouraging invasive plants that can easily dominate the landscape and provide habitat for detrimental insects.

Now, we need your help monitoring our progress. iNaturalist is an online network of people sharing information about biodiversity. By downloading the iNaturalist app and recording your observations when you visit, you will record the number of different plant, insect, and avian species and their relative frequency on the property.

You can find the iNaturalist app in your App Store. You can learn how to use the app here.

Please remember when making observations that Dodon is a working farm where safety precautions should always be observed. Your safety is our top priority, and we appreciate your understanding and cooperation in this matter.

  • Always wear appropriate shoes and clothing when walking around the property.

  • Watch carefully for uneven terrain, gopher holes, and other obstructions.

  • Use sunscreen and insect repellent; check for ticks frequently.

  • Keep an appropriate buffer between you and the livestock. Do not approach, try to pet, or feed Willa, Dodon’s livestock guardian dog, the sheep, or the chickens.

  • Do not bring any dog near the sheep.

  • Do not enter the vineyard or meadow unless you are accompanied by a member of the Dodon staff.

  • Do not let your children explore the property unaccompanied.

  • Do not pick any flowers, touch the grape vines, or taste grapes without explicit permission from a team member.

Have fun learning more about the natural world around us.

Understanding Wine Chemistry with Kurtis

We were recently asked for simple definitions of common wine chemistry terms, like brix, acidity and pH. Dodon’s assistant winemaker, Kurtis, took some time to respond. We thought our community might enjoy his answers!

In North America, we measure the sugar content of grapes using °Brix. Brix represents the total soluble solids (SS) in a solution. In wine grapes, these SS are primarily made up of the fermentable sugars glucose and fructose. A typical range of °Brix at harvest is 19-25°, a number that tells a winemaker how much alcohol they should expect after fermentation is complete. So, a wine with 21°Brix could be estimated to yield 11.7%-13% abv depending on the fermentation temperature, the yeast used, and storage conditions.

Acidity is arguably what makes the taste of wine unique compared to other alcoholic beverages. Tartaric, malic, and lactic are the chief acids in wine and vary in proportion depending on the farming methods used to grow the fruit, when it was harvested, and how the wine was made. Tartaric acid is the primary acid in grapes and has the most significant influence on taste. Too much tartaric acid can make wine taste sour. Malic acid, the principal acid in apples, is secondary to tartaric but still naturally present in grapes. It tastes sharper than tartaric acid - think green apples. Lactic acid, the acid that lends milk its freshness, is a "softer" acid. It is the product of the conversion of malic acid during malolactic fermentation. We measure the acidity in wines as titratable acidity (TA) in grams per liter (g/L), so a wine with 8g/L TA has more acid and is more acidic than 4g/L.

Wine pH is generally between 3 and 4 on a scale of 0-14, with 0 being the most acidic, 14 the most basic, and 7 neutral. Wine pH measures how many free hydrogen ions (H+) are in an acidic solution. H+ comes from the various acids present in wine, but the absolute amount of H+ depends on how strongly it binds to the underlying salt, sodium tartrate, for example, or other components, such as the tannins, in a wine's solution. A wine's pH partly correlates with the quantity of tartaric, malic, or other acids. For example, two wines could have 7g/L TA but have a pH of 3.3 and 3.5, respectively.

Winemakers are primarily concerned with pH because of the effect on longevity and spoilage. High-pH wines tend to oxidize at a higher rate, giving them a nutty taste, and they are subject to microbial spoilage. High-pH wines may thus require more sulfites.

These three components of wine have a very close relationship to each other and account for most of a wine’s taste. The Brix/sugar content of wine yields ethanol, which masks bitterness, imparts sweetness, creates body, and influences aromatics. A wine with low alcohol would taste thin and watery, whereas high alcohol wine tastes hot and overpowering.

Acidity and the subsequent pH create freshness in wine, preserve aromatics, decrease bitterness, and make wine food-friendly. Wine’s acid levels can accentuate or diminish the other flavors present. Think of it like lemonade without the proper proportion of lemon juice to sugar. If there is not enough lemon juice, the drink tastes too sweet. If there is too much, then it tastes sour. The balance of wine comes from the stylistic choices of alcohol content, acidity, and tannins.

General guidelines for how a region/grape/style can affect these three elements are:

  • Cooler temperatures retain more acidity in the grapes but provide lower Brix

  • Warmer temperatures lose more acidity but can develop higher Brix

  • The varietal grown can considerably impact acidity levels and how early the fruit ripens (thus, how much time they have in the growing season). Petit Manseng has notoriously high acid levels and thus ripens very late in the season.

  • The winemaker's style and decision of when to pick significantly impacts the varying levels of Brix and acidity. For example, if they pick early or underripe, the grapes could retain a lot of acidity even if grown in a warm climate.

To help demonstrate how these three components of wine are linked, I’ve included two hypothetical examples of a potential grape analysis on opposite spectrums:

Low Brix/ High Acid/ Low pH

Example numbers: 19°Brix, 12g/L TA, 3.10 pH

      Cool growing regions allow for these characteristics and are typical of sparkling wines. The high acid is desired for the bright and acidic taste of sparkling wines while the low Brix would yield a lower abv. This is ideal because the secondary fermentation that most sparkling wines go through increases the alcohol slightly.

High Brix/ Low Acid/ High pH

Example numbers: 25°Brix, 4g/L TA, 3.70 pH

       A vine can naturally impart enough sugar to reach around 25°Brix; anything past 25° results from dehydration. Most 25°Brix wines can only be achieved in warm and dry climates with a long growing season. The resulting wine would be around 15% abv and likely lack acid. The result can be a bold, powerful wine style that should be consumed relatively soon after bottling.

Growers and winemakers can also influence the balance of sugar and acid present in wine. For example, regenerative agriculture methods like cover crops and animal integration that build soil health have been shown by David Montgomery to increase vitamin C levels, the precursor of tartaric acid, in crops. At Dodon, we have seen a 50% increase in titratable acidity since implementing these techniques. These methods also reduce Brix and, thus, alcohol and are likely to help mitigate the effects of climate change-induced warming.

In the cellar, many Chardonnay makers use a naturally occurring bacterial fermentation to convert malic acid to lactic acid, resulting in a smoother, fuller-bodied, less tart wine.


Kurtis joined the team in January 2023. After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America, he started his career in the restaurant industry in Annapolis. His curiosity about food preservation led him to fermentation and a wine career. Kurtis served as a harvest intern at Dodon in 2020 and 2021 at Antiyal in Chile’s Maipo Valley. After his internship, he moved to The Wine Collective in Baltimore as Assistant Winemaker. Kurtis recently completed the Winemaking Certificate Program at UC Davis and is eager to apply what he has learned to Dodon's vineyard and wines.

Tom's Speech at Environmental Council of the States Meeting

On Monday, June 26, Tom spoke at the opening reception of the 2023 State Environmental Protection meeting hosted by the Environmental Council of the States (ECOS). ECOS is the national, nonpartisan association of state and territorial environmental agency leaders and is led by Ben Grumbles, the former Secretary of the Maryland Department of the Environment. Tom was introduced by Kevin Atticks, current Secretary of the Maryland Department of Agriculture, and the former Executive Director of the Maryland Wineries Association.

Several people who reviewed or heard Tom’s comments regarding the nexus of agriculture, health, the environment, and social justice suggested that he share them….

Values-based Purchasing at Dodon

Values-based Purchasing at Dodon

Growing grapes, making wine, and distributing the final product require the same steps as producing and selling food. And as Dodon’s connection with the local food system has grown, I’ve become increasingly aware of its deep-seated problems. Despite enormous federal subsidies, it fails to provide healthy diets. Production is focused on just a few grains, primarily used to feed the cows and chickens that supply dairy, eggs, and meat. It contributes about thirty percent of all greenhouse gas emissions…

2021 Vintage Summary: Love Thy Neighbor

2021 Vintage Summary: Love Thy Neighbor

It has been more than a year since I last wrote to the club. Focused entirely on the logistics of keeping our staff healthy and employed, I had lost the ability to concentrate or convey a coherent story, even a summary of the 2020 vintage.

But now the 2021 harvest is over, and the wines are aging. So, it is time to reflect on what has happened and what it means and to uncover the more significant lessons from the vintage.

2020 Vintage Check-in

2020 Vintage Check-in

The year started normally enough. The autumn had been good to us. Warm weather, absent the extreme rain of 2018, meant healthy vines entered dormancy. We enthusiastically embraced new cover crops, created a novel composting program designed to stimulate mycorrhizal fungi, and bought a flail mower to mulch vine pruning wood in the vineyard.

2019 Vintage Summary: Tranquility and Transformation

2019 Vintage Summary: Tranquility and Transformation

Things may have seemed simple in 2019, but they were not.

After the rains of 2018, the 2019 vintage brought welcomed change. Unusually dry weather that started in mid-July helped make the harvest, at first blush, delightfully simple. The vines politely stopped growing at veraison, focusing their energy on ripening the fruit. The vineyard team was, well, in the vineyard, the work progressing quickly and efficiently. Picking, sorting, and processing seemed almost effortless. The wines made themselves.

In praise of farmworkers (and all food workers)

In praise of farmworkers (and all food workers)

As I reflect from the comfort of an air-conditioned office, the vineyard team is hedging for the third time this year. Usually, we only hedge twice, but the excess foliage that resulted from last year’s heavy rainfall is creating too much shade. The temperature will soon be 90 degrees Fahrenheit for the 27th time this season. The high humidity, now 97% according to the weather station, means that neither the vines nor those who tend them get much benefit from evaporative cooling.

What is the origin of “Dodon” soils?

What is the origin of “Dodon” soils?

If you take a tour with a winemaker, the topic will frequently turn to soil. Depending on where you are, you might hear about the kimmeridgian limestone of Burgundy, the montmorillonite (aka blue) clay of Pomerol, or the alluvial gravel, clay, and sand of the Rutherford Bench. In many winemakers’ minds, the soil defines the wine, trumping both climate and human influences. To hear a winemaker tell it, the soil of their region or vineyard is unlike the soil anywhere in the world, and without doubt the very best for growing wine grapes. I’m as guilty as anybody of this hyperbole, and to support my case, or perhaps to atone for boastfulness, I set out to understand the origin and implications of the soil at Dodon.

Climate Change, Part 2: A New Year’s Resolution

Climate Change, Part 2: A New Year’s Resolution

As a farmer and grape grower, the effects of climate change are hard to miss, and the news is getting worse. Even the best-case projections regarding temperature, sea level rise, floods, fire, disease, and agricultural output are frightening. Partly due to changes in the climate, extinction rates among all species are about 1,000 times greater than they would be in the absence of human activity. Pulitzer prize winning author Elizabeth Kolbert has called this phenomenon The Sixth Extinction.

Climate Change, Part 1: A Christmas Wish

Polly and I are spending the holidays with our granddaughter, Juana Magdalena, in a little town called City Bell, just east of Buenos Aires. Polly’s three daughters are all here too, almost as much fun as Juana. As the summer solstice passes, our days are filled with family, exercise, asados, newspapers, a bit of sightseeing, and, for me, Spanish lessons. There is a fruit and vegetable farm within walking distance, and freshly butchered meat and chickens on the way, with none of the planting, weeding, feeding, watering, and picking chores of farm life.

2018 Vintage Summary

Tuesday, October 2 was a beautiful, if somewhat warm, autumn day – the kind of day that we hope for in early October, when we are typically just starting to pick the black grapes. But this, the final day of picking in 2018, signaled the perplexing character of the vintage. The image of Dodon’s weather vanes pointing toward each other on an otherwise lovely morning is its lasting symbol.

Raise a Glass to Polly

Polly is the inspirational leader of the Dodon team. She keeps all of us going in the right direction, gets her hands dirty when needed, and looks out for the human side of the vineyard and cellar. She brings these same qualities to her career in public health policy where she has recently been recognized as an Honorary Fellow of the American Academy of Nursing. It’s a rare honor, conferred on only a few non-nurses each year. The formal announcement can be found here.